geekers: (Pucca-eating)
How the World Eats
By Bryan Walsh;

Originally the food of emperors, the cuisine known as kaiseki* is the pinnacle of Japanese eating—and few restaurants serve a more refined menu than Kikunoi, in the former imperial capital of Kyoto. The experience begins before a single plate is served, with the setting: a tatami-mat room, bare save for the tokonoma, the alcove in the corner that displays a single scroll of calligraphy and a seasonally appropriate flower, today a lily. Then the food begins to flow, course after course of carefully trimmed portions, delivered by a kimono-clad server: a single piece of sea-bream sushi wrapped in bamboo leaf, a tiny grilled ayu fish with water-pepper vinegar, fried prawns and bamboo shoots with an egg-yolk-and-cream sauce. Kaiseki dining is the product of centuries of cultural evolution, but though Kikunoi is high-end—as the bill will indicate—its cuisine is meant to be a grand elaboration of the basic Japanese home meal: rice, fish, pickles, vegetables and miso soup, artfully presented in small, healthy portions.

Rest of the article, below the cut )


* The timing of me coming across this article amused me because yesterday I was looking up a Japanese place in D.C. (Sushi Taro) that Peter and I wll be checking out (to eat keiseki) when we are in D.C. for [ profile] cchan8 and [ profile] frost_knight's wedding. Then C ([ profile] cchan8) posted that she and W ([ profile] frost_knight) went there for keiseki this weekend.

September 2011

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